Відео

Sorry, it's been a long time since I made that video. I should have included the part numbers. I went to the dealer with the old one in my hand. They didn't know what it was even though I showed it to them. They showed me an exploded view of the transmission and I pointed it out. They got the number from there.

If your rotors have groves in it. YES. Cut / Skim them if within tolerance or replace them.

I use Fuchs gear oil or the one from the dealer which is probably made by Fuchs. There is only one type of oil in this transmission. The automatic version made by ZF use auto trans fluid for the front section and gear oil for the rear (torsen diff).

@@pnswg01 There are disagreements about what viscosity to use, 75w90 or 75w80? gl4 or gl5?

@@raulgambramartinez65 I am not a transmission repair person so I can only speak about what I use. I tried Redline after rebuild and that was the worst. I changed that real quick because shifting was not good especially from 1st to 2nd and when it's cold. I replaced it with Fuchs 75w90 and that was a night and day difference. The next time I changed it I went with the one from the dealer. (I didn't see any difference between the dealer oil and the Fuchs) As for GL4 or GL5, I don't remember.

need some serious help can't switch gears

Hi! I also have a vw Routan that won’t shift out of first gear . Just wandering did you happen to find out what the problem was. Would greatly appreciate the help if you know

That is the way UA-cam algorithm works. This was the first video on this subject yet has the least amount of views. Two versions of it. This is the final version. Other videos don't even bother with illustrations which take more time to do. Overall this is more of a slide than a video but it gets the point it's trying to show. For me, it doesn't worth my time to make videos anymore. Thanks for watching...

Thanks for watching.

If you turn any axle flange forward, the opposite side turns backwards. This is normal. That is the way differentials work. You would have to turn both sides in the same direction at the same time. Try applying tension to both drive flange so one cannot turn without the other and power should transfer to the output shaft at the torsen differential. ua-cam.com/video/VN4_asSBEKY/v-deo.htmlsi=T8878DMp94L0eVt7

Thanks for the kind words.

Thanks for watching.

Any luck with the fix? We have the same nose po732 and po733

@@mscreneetyes I replaced the solenoid pack, low drum assembly and all other solenoids in the transmission I’ve put 14,000 miles since then and it runs great it’s very easy to do took maybe 8 hours total

Thanks for watching.

I got the same code on my 2010 dodge journey just haven’t had time to check what’s wrong

@@charrito020 just replace bad solenoid or assembly good to go solenoids tough to find eBay or u pull junkyard

@@njoeandjenthanks

Same here. SE model@NA. The user manual says it has one, but I don’t see it behind the glove box.

Hi mate any answer to your question as my tranny only has 1st and reverse? Don’t want to do more work than needed.Did you fix it? Thanks Steve

Thanks for watching. Sorry about the broken bolts.

In the comfort of my temperature control garage. Yeah! Technically in the house. LOL.

@@pnswg01 living the dream 😩

Were you able to locate it? Send help!

@@albert84apj I see the side , with screws that are vertical. I’ll try the top compartment.

In the USA, most new fuel pump comes with the clear hose attached with ear clamps. You simply plug it to the port inside the fuel tank. We are NOT replacing the return line, it comes with the fuel pump. We are just removing the old pump module and replacing it with a new one. If you happen to get the electric pump with no hose attach to it then you have no choice but to use the old lines. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching. I had two stalling problems with the van in the past. First time was when driving the engine would stall for no reason, mostly when cold, well there was a reason. The EGR valve was bad. It would only stall after you start driving. The other was a bad TCC solenoid. See a previous comment... I don't want to repeat myself.

I have never seen this before. The fuel system should still be under enough pressure to inject fuel as soon as the fuel pump turns on. If the pressure is dropping I would check elsewhere. Not to say this is not a fuel pump issue. In my experience, the fuel pump sometimes stops running intermittently when going bad, but it never depends on a slope. In this case I would hit the bottom of the fuel tank and sometimes get lucky. Check to see if it's an engine temperature issue. If you're getting a long crank when the engine is cold. It could be the engine temperature sensor going bad. (If it's reading that the engine is warm but it's actually cold, the injectors will not squirt extra fuel for cold start, thus the crank time gets longer)

@@pnswg01 alright thanks a lot, I've read somewhere it could be the sensor too, I'll see. To test the pump, I can just use a multimeter on the cables seen in the video, right? I'll also check fuel pressure in vcds as well.

@@pnswg01 also, forgot to mention the engine fan turns on after a cold start.

@@insus100 If you have VCDS check the engine temperature when the car is cold. If it seems way off then change it.

@@insus100 The fan uses a different sensor, I think it's blue or green.

Unfortunately, that's how it is. If you make a good video, few people comment because they get all the information they want. According to Google, little comments and low like count means your video is not engaging and not worth promoting. It's just the sad reality. Thanks for watching.

@@pnswg01 i made a video from my passat 4motion after not finding anyone about this. And 3 days after upload i found your video. I am waiting for my fuel relay and maybe i open up the hatch again just to check my 2 connectors but it seems to work. I do remember i thought to put the black wires in the middle but if i put the wrong connectors at wrong side i dont know or if it has any meaning at all as long as the fuel gauge works. But first day after changing the relay and open this up the instrument showing how long i can drive on what fuel i have was going up and down by 200 kilometers. But now after i have been using it for a few days it seems to have stabilized itself.

@@pnswg01 and also, my TDI fuel pump for the 4motion is no where to be bought unless its used. Dealership wanted 850 usd for a new one that they maybe could find from old stock. But what NOONE is telling anyone is that you easily can just remove the pump itself and replace it with a new pump for almost any passat. Just remove the pump it's after all just Clipped in with 3 clamps and it cost 30usd from any online shop. Its 17 usd if you buy it from china. So the white piece of plastic is actually charged as 820 usd and the pump itself cost 30 usd. Its insanely stupid. The video is on my channel if anyone reads this. You should also add some tags like 4motion passat tdi fuel pump and so on to make it easier to find for the people with 4 wheel drive vag

No

4.8-5.1 normal

Check the PR numbers on your label Steel Front Brakes LA = 320 mm. New Thickness=30 mm. Wear Limit = 28 mm. 1LJ = 345 mm. New Thickness = 30 mm. Wear Limit = 28 mm. 1LP (Brembo) = 345 mm. New Thickness = 30 mm. Wear Limit = 28 mm. 1LL, 1LF, 1ZK, FM0 = 356 mm. New Thickness = 34 mm. Wear Limit = 32 mm. 1LU (Brembo) = 400 mm. New Thickness = 38 mm. Wear Limit = 36 mm. 1LM, 1LX (Brembo Wave Design) = 390 mm. New Thickness = 36 mm. Wear Limit = 34 mm. Ceramic Front Brakes 1LW (Brembo) = 400 mm. New Thickness = 38 mm. Wear Limit = Not Specified 1LN (Brembo) = 420 mm. New Thickness = 40 mm. Wear Limit = Not Specified Steel Rear Brakes 1KW = 300 mm. New Thickness = 12 mm. Wear Limit = 10 mm. 2EA, 2EE = 330 mm. New Thickness = 22 mm. Wear Limit = 20 mm. 1KY = 356 mm. New Thickness = 22 mm. Wear Limit = 20 mm. 1KJ, 1KQ (Wave-Design) = 356 mm. New Thickness = 22 mm. Wear Limit = 20 mm. Ceramic Rear Brakes 1KK, 1KU = 370 mm. New Thickness = 30 mm. Wear Limit = Not Specified. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for correcting that. I will correct the title.

Yes, it is fixable, you can either reuse the same stud/nut that came out or buy new stud and nut. To insert the new stud, lock 2 nuts together on the stud by turning each other in opposite direction. Use the top nut to screw in the stud until tight then remove the nuts. Depending on which one, space will be thight but it's doable. Thanks for watching and commenting.

@@pnswg01 Thank you so much Patrick for the reply and your great content. Keep it up!